Midway on our journey from metropolitan Brussels to medieval Bruges, we stopped by a much lesser-known but equally gorgeous old city. Prior to our visit we never realized how important Ghent was in the Middle Ages when it rivaled Paris as one of the largest cities in Western Europe. We also didn’t expect such a dramatically beautiful medieval town centre, full of character and yet almost void of tourists on a drizzly Wednesday morning.
Today’s Ghent takes a backseat to the likes of Brussels and Antwerp and enjoys its role as a vibrant university town. The mostly pedestrianized centre is just small enough (about 800m across) to be explored on foot, but large enough to contain a remodeled 12th Century castle, a picturesque canal and old harbor flanked with lively restaurant patios, two important medieval churches and a belfry registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. That’s enough to keep even the most avid sightseer occupied for a good half day or more.
We originally didn’t plan on touring the interior of the Gravensteen, but changed our mind when we got off Tram #1 and came face to face with this impressive moated castle. It turned out to be the best idea as the rain started to come down hard while we hid inside the castle’s dungeons and fascinated ourselves with its collection of torture devices. The guillotine in particular makes a great photo prop.
While the authenticity of its 19th Century renovations may be questioned, no one can dismiss the Gravensteen’s claim of possessing one of the best panoramas over Ghent. Even on a miserable rainy day its sweeping vista of the medieval Graslei harbour, Sint-Niklaaskerk and the towering Belfry was still well worth the climb. Besides, it’s a nice warm-up before our thigh-burning ascend up the top section of the Belfry.
Just like world-famous Bruges to the northwest, Ghent is crisscrossed by canals and waterways that can create a breathtakingly romantic atmosphere, especially on a drizzly day with half-deserted cobblestone streets. Though the canal along the Graslei harbour may seem too cute for anything bigger than tour boats, Ghent’s main harbor to the north still functions as one of Belgium’s largest shipping ports.
Next to the canal stands an entire row of fascinating medieval guildhalls, now mostly converted to brasseries. We pondered having lunch at Korenlei Twee on the west side of the canal, but was turned away as it wasn’t open until 12:30. Instead we headed for one of the city’s unmistakable signature restaurants, this one housed inside a 19th century industrial warehouse.
Tucked away in a narrow alley just steps from the canal, Het Pakhuis has apparently been fashioned out of a cavernous steel-framed storehouse hailing from the age of Art Nouveau. Think 40-feet ceiling, overstuffed leather chairs and ornate metalwork all around. We arrived with some skepticism as online reviews suggested hit-or-miss, but our early lunch actually turned out very well as we’ll see.
Finally getting my hands on the original Trappist beer! For some reason I can get Chimay Bleue, Duvel or even Tripel Karmeliet in Canada, but just not Westmalle. This was one creamy smooth beer.
Featured on the day’s menu was the Filet Americain, or Steak Tartare, depending on whether you read the Flemish or the French side of the menu. Not sure where the “Americain” comes from as most Americans I know wouldn’t dare touch this rare delicacy (pun intended) ... unless you venture into Korea Town in Los Angeles and order the Yukhoe. Apparently the Flemish, the French and the Koreans all agree that this is one of the best ways to enjoy beef at its most tender and flavorful state, and I have to agree.
No matter how you call it, this steak is still served entirely raw. As shallots and capers are NOT intended to kill all possible pathogens, I must warn that anyone with a compromised immune system should stay away. But most importantly, you need absolute confidence in the choice of the meat cut and the hygiene of the kitchen, which was why I chose to have my Steak Tartare at one of Ghent’s best known restaurants.
And this was an excellent steak in every way -- the chunky hand-chopped texture, the mellowed vinegar in the marinade, the capers, shallots and minced parsley, and most of all, the absolute freshness of ingredients. I’m going to miss this dish as there’s no chance that I can find this back home.
My wife went with the more conventional Moules Mariniere which was tenderly steamed and generously portioned, albeit slightly pricey as far as lunches went. It also came with a papercone-ful of your typical Belgian frites, crunchily double-fried and yet remarkably non-oily.
Bill for Two Persons
| Filet Americain | 17.5 Euros |
| Moules Mariniere | 23.5 Euros |
| Westmalle Tripel | 4 Euros |
| Juice | 3 Euros |
| TOTAL before tips | 48 Euros (CAD$67.2) |
With a replenishment of energy from lunch we finally tackled Ghent’s most famous landmark. At a vertigo-inducing height of 91m, the Belfry of Ghent has been the town’s beloved guardian, timepiece and treasury for almost 700 years. An elevator now takes visitors two-thirds of the way up, but the last third still requires a moderately strenuous climb.
Admiring the striking mechanism for the clock chime, which takes place every 15 minutes, was just part of the fun. My favorite part of the visit though was touring the adjoining Cloth Hall which hosts the St. Michael’s Guild fencing club, the oldest in the world. Think of it as a 400-year-old martial arts Dojo with dark wooden furniture, steel strip flooring and portraits of legendary champions of the past centuries. The whole place just breathes of history and chivalric rituals ... this was my favorite spot in Ghent.
We returned to Gent-Sint-Pieters station by Tram #1, before journeying further to Bruges for the next two nights. The trusty 10-trip Lijnkaart we purchased here will continue to serve us well on local buses in Bruges, thanks to the region-wide coverage of the De Lijn network.
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